While creativity is what draws people to photography, it takes a certain level of knowledge of camera settings to push one’s images to the next level. This is especially true when working in a limited color space like Adobe RGB.
Understanding key camera settings like Shutter Speed, Aperture and ISO can help you improve the quality of your photos.
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed is one of the most important camera settings to understand and use. It controls how much light reaches the sensor, and therefore impacts the brightness of your photos. It also affects motion blur and can be used to create unique visual effects. Unlike aperture and ISO, shutter speed is measured in fractions of a second, so it’s easy to see how quickly they change – a quick shutter speed will freeze fast-moving subjects, while a slow shutter speed can blur movement to create dreamy images, according to Clare Gelderd of Clare Gelderd Photography.
The shutter is essentially a curtain that keeps light out when the camera isn’t taking a picture. When you press the button at the top of the camera (which is actually called the “shutter release”), the shutter opens for a fraction of a second and lets in the light that is recorded on the sensor. The shutter then closes, ending the exposure and preventing light from reaching the sensor again.
If the shutter stays open for a longer period of time, the image will be brighter; if it’s closed for less time, the image will be darker. Typically, you’ll find shutter speeds displayed in whole seconds rather than fractions of a second – for example, 1s or 10s. This is because a longer shutter speed is easier to handle without introducing camera shake from hand-holding the camera.
It’s important to experiment with different shutter speeds and learn what each one does – both from a technical perspective and from a creative standpoint. For example, a long shutter speed can be used to create blurred images while keeping the subject sharp – perfect for landscapes and waterfalls. A fast shutter speed, on the other hand, can be used to freeze moving subjects such as sports or wildlife.
Aperture
Aperture is one of the most important parts of the exposure triangle, as it controls how much light reaches your camera’s sensor and influences depth of field. It also has several artistic effects that can make your photos stand out from the crowd.
Apertures are a series of opaque “blades” inside your lens that open or close to let in more or less light. As the aperture opens, more light passes through and makes your photo brighter. As the aperture closes, it becomes darker and can lead to a loss of detail in your image.
While it may be difficult for beginners to understand at first, understanding aperture is crucial to mastering photography basics. The best way to approach aperture is to think of it as the camera’s pupil, opening or closing as needed to allow more or less light in.
As the aperture opens, a narrower depth of field is created, making it easier to isolate your subject from the background. A larger aperture creates a more shallow depth of field, which blurs the background and can be used to create a beautiful bokeh effect.
Aperture can also be used to create a sense of movement in your photographs by creating a blurred background, which can make the subject appear more dynamic and eye-catching. This can be useful for fashion or portrait photographers who want to create a sense of movement in their images. Aperture is also a great tool to use when you’re shooting in a moving environment or with a fast shutter speed.
ISO
The ISO camera setting controls your sensor’s sensitivity to light. A lower ISO is great for bright, sunny days and higher ISOs are ideal for low-light situations (though a high ISO can introduce digital noise into your images). It’s important to understand and master the nuances of the ISO photo setting because it is one of three critical elements that determine exposure control in photography, alongside shutter speed and aperture.
The acronym ISO stands for International Standards Organization and was likely derived from a 1974 combination of earlier naming conventions for film speed (DIN and ASA). The ISO photo setting is measured in stops, with each step representing a doubling in sensitivity. For example, ISO 100 is your camera’s lowest native ISO and produces the cleanest photos. ISO 400 is a good choice for moderately lit environments, such as indoor spaces with natural light or outdoor shade. As you move to higher ISOs, the image quality starts to deteriorate due to increased digital noise.
Aperture is a separate camera setting that is not related to the ISO but has an impact on how your photographs look. The wider your camera’s aperture is open, the more light it lets in and the blurrier your background will be. This is great for separating your subject from the background and creating a sense of depth in your shots. However, if your camera has an autofocus system, it may struggle to find a sharp focus in low-light conditions.
As a result, it’s essential to have a basic understanding of the main camera settings before you start shooting in manual mode. Getting to know your camera well will help you achieve stunning images that resonate with audiences worldwide.
Metering Mode
Choosing the correct metering mode can make or break your images. Knowing the different modes and how they work can empower you to take full control of your exposure settings, ensuring that your photos turn out just as you intend them to every time.
The most common metering mode is Matrix (Nikon) or Evaluative (Canon). This mode evaluates the light from multiple areas of the scene and weighs them differently based on where your focus point is located within the frame. It’s a great option for scenes that contain both dark and light areas and can be used in conjunction with semi automatic shooting modes such as Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority.
Another popular metering mode is center-weighted average. This mode weighs the center of the frame more heavily than the edges, making it ideal for portraits or subjects that are positioned in the center of the frame. It’s also less influenced by extreme highlights or shadows, which can be useful in high contrast scenarios.
Finally, there is spot metering. This mode takes a very small area of the frame into consideration for its exposure calculations, usually around 2-5%. This can be particularly useful for situations that require precise control, such as when photographing a subject against a very different background from the rest of the scene.
For more general use, there is also partial / center-weighted metering. This mode works in a similar way to matrix metering but gives greater weight to the centre of the frame. It’s perfect for portraits or when your main subject is centered in the scene and you want to ensure that it receives its fair share of the exposure.
Drive Mode
There are a lot of different drive modes for photographers to choose from depending on the type of subjects they’re shooting. They can range from single shot to continuous mode, to time-lapse and remote control shooting.
Essentially, the drive mode controls how often your camera takes photos when you press the shutter release button. This can be very useful if you’re working with fast-moving subjects or for situations where you want to make sure that you have plenty of images to choose from, like sports or wildlife photography.
Most digital cameras have a PASM dial on top, which allows you to select between Program (close to auto), Aperture Priority Mode (“A” or “Av”), Shutter Priority Mode (“S” or “Tv”) and Manual mode. Program Mode works well for beginners, while Shutter and Aperture priority modes are good for getting more comfortable with the other elements of the exposure triangle.
Photographer’s Tip: A great way to become familiar with the drive modes on your camera is to practice by shooting in different settings and then checking the results. This will give you a feel for the effects of each setting and how they work together.
Single-shot mode is the most basic, taking one photo each time you press the shutter. This is ideal for landscapes, still-life photography, real estate photography, and portraits. Continuous mode, also known as burst mode, will continue to take photos as long as you hold the shutter release button down. This is a good option for sports, wildlife, or other action photography and will increase your odds of capturing the perfect moment. Most cameras have a low, medium and high burst option so you can choose which is best for your subject.